Iran (Shiraz, Yazd, Isfahan & Teheran) 2015 & 2018

Introduction: 

• During 2015 & 2018, while I was living in Dubai, I got excited about visiting Iran and I fell in love with this country, sadly attacked and left aside by the "international power"
• First time in Iran I was a bit scared because, of course, media most people are used to says lot of shit about this country. Best advice I can give is DO NOT LISTEN
• People are curious about visitors but very nice, I really loved people in this country
• Firstly I visited Isfahan, ancient Iranian capital, and how much I liked it made me go back to the current capital, Tehran, a few months later. Three years later I visited Shiraz, Yazd, some villages in between, and Isfahan again. Anyway, I will write this blog from south to north, starting by the places I enjoyed the most
• An important note before starting is that as of 2018 there were no ATM´s to withdraw money in Iran, so do not forget to take cash with you. Once in the city there are people in the streets changing at a very good rate, as the local currency keeps devaluating (in October 2018 I was given three times more than the official interbank rate showed, instead of 42,000 reals per $ I was given 135,000!)
• Iran offers visa on arrival on major airports for most nationalities but ir normally takes 1 hour in the airport and surprisingly I paid a different fee the three timest. Also, sometimes they require proof of international health insurance, so if you are unlucky they will force you pay some extra dollars for it in the airport (was not my case but I saw this happening) 
• Currently I have read you have to fill some evisa information online 2 days prior to arrival but I did not and it was ok doing it at the airport
• Ladies must cover their hair in Iran
• For winter sport lovers, Iran is apparently a paradise. I will try my best to experience Iran in winter as well as all my trips were in spring and summer 
• I would recommend at least a week in Iran not missing Shiraz, Yazd and Isfahan

Places visited:

• a) Shiraz & Persepolis
• b) Yazd & Kharanagh
• c) Isfahan & Qom
• d) Tehran
  

a) Shiraz & Persepolis:

• Places visited in Shiraz: Nasir Ol Molk Mosque, Shahe Heragh Holy Shrine, Vakil Bazaar, Khan Citadel, Eram Garden
  
  
• Nasir Ol Molk Mosque, or Pink Mosque, built during late 19th century, is one of the prettiest mosques I have ever seen due to its coloured glasses and reflection. I was really looking forward to visiting this place for a few years
  
  
  
  
  
• Shahe Heragh Holy Shrine for Shia muslims is a complex with mosque and funerary monument where locals have a wide space to practice their religion or simply hang out with friends and familly, particularly recommended at night. When tourists go for the first time they can receive a free 15m guided tour explaining the complex
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Vakil Bazaar is the main bazaar in Shiraz and walking around you can appreciate old shops, restaurants, beautiful courtyards and more mosques. My best meal in Iran was near this bazaar in a restaurant called Kateh Mas
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Khan Citadel, the castle of Karim Khan which served as a prison afterwards
  
• Eram Garden, a beautiful garden with an ancient palace which cannot be visited as of 2018. Sadly there is a small entrance fee for the visit. Nice visit if you have enough time in Shiraz, but not  a priority
  

• Another priority of this trip was to visit Persepolis and Necropolis
  
• We took a driver for these visits (stopping at both places and dropping us at Yazd, at more than 400km, was only $35 as of october 2018)
• Persepolis was the ceremonial capital of  Persia under the Achaemenid Empire (6th to 4th centuries BC). Very interesting visit where we learnt a bit about zoroastrianism, the initial and main religion in Iran till the arrival of Islam on the 7th century
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Necropolis refers to Naqsh-e Rostam and Naqsh-e Rajab, limestone inscriptions from the 3rd century which remind me of Madain Saleh in Saudi Arabia or Petra in Jordan
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

 b) Yazd & Kharanagh:

• Before arriving into Yazd, we stopped a few minutes by Abarkooh to receive a brief explanation about an ice house where ancients store ice and food throughout the year
  
• Yazd was a great surprise in our trip. Initially it was not in our plan but at the end we stayed the most in this city
• Yazd is the capital of zoroastrianism in Iran, the religion of the ancient Persian Empire. By visiting the Fire Temple we learnt a bit about this religion and why it is considered a temple of fire, and the Towers of Silence are their funerary centers (we did not visit those but it is very interesting the know about how they disposed dead bodies "as safely as possible")
• Its old town its considered UNESCO heritage since 2017
  
  
  
  
• The old town offers plenty of rooftops with lovely views and a very relaxing atmosphere
  
  
  
  
• Some of the highlights inluce Jameh Mosque (12th century)
  
• The Amir Chakhmag Complex, another muslim centre  with the name of its governor from 15th century
  
  
  
  
• or Lariha House (19th century, free entry)
  
  
• From Yazd there are several tour operators or simply taxi drivers who organize visits nearby. We went to Kharanag and Chak Chak
• Kharanagh, an almost deserted village in Iran, was a delight in our trip. There is no entrance fee, and you can even walk on the roofs of the houses and castle. I recommend going during the afternoon in order to avoid most tourists who start their tours with Kharanagh in the morning
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Also you can visit the Kharanagh old bridge after 5-minute walk
  
  
• We did not find Chak Chak impressive but we enjoyed crossing the Iranian desert
  
• However, Chak Chak is considered the most sacred shrines of zoroastrianism and receives plenty of pilgrims mainly in mid June. The tradition says The Princess was cornered by invading Arabs but the mountain opened up in response to her pleadings. There is a spring at the top of the mountain by the Shrine which is meant to be the Princess' tears and the place receives its name from how the tears sound on the floor: "chak chak"
  

 c) Isfahan & Qom: 

• On the way to Isfahan we stopped a bit in Nain, where there is one of the oldest mosques in Iran and a castle in ruins (we did not spend even one hour, and I do not recommend visiting this place unless it is a very short visit on your way)
  
  
  
  
  
• I went to Isfahan with 3 friends in 2015 and repeated in 2018 enjoying even more
• In 2015, leaving the airport in Isfahan was a shock, as there is a fence with a guard who opens the gate of the airport after showing your passport and visa permit
• Airport is a bit far from the city, but I was lucky to be picked up by a local couple thanks to a friend I studied with in Wales
• Once in the city most places are easily visited by foot
• Infrastructures looked much better than I expected (media makes you think you will find a bombed country instead of the beautiful Iran)

Main places visited:

• Downtown (Naqsh-e Jahan Square, Grand Bazaar, Si o Seh Pol bridge, Moshtagh park)
• Mount Sofeh
  

 Downtown:

•  One of the most popular places is Naqsh-e Jahan Square, where Imam mosque can be appreciatedxx
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Within the huge square you can find Ali Qapu's Palace, from 17th century, with six floors where noble visitors and foreign ambassadors were entertained. Views from top of this palace are lovely
  
  
  
  
• Right next to this area you can visit the Grand Bazaar, not as impressive as the one in Istanbul but still nice to visit
  
• Another beautiful spot, especially at night, one of the eleven bridges in the city Si o Seh Pol bridge, the bridge of the 33 arches,  built at the end of the 16th century
  
  
• Of course we visited this area during the day as well and there are several gardens nearby such as Moshtagh park, where we were lucky to meet a refugee from Afghanistan (again, international powers "helping"), and even meet some locals who happily invited us to play table tennis with them
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

• After a few days visiting mosques and zoroastrain symbols, we were surprised to see Vank Cathedral in Isfahan, from early 17th century, dedicated to the Armenian deportees, which combines Armenian, Persian and European styles
  
  
  
  
  

Mount Sofeh:

• A popular local area for picnics, trekking, or enjoy the views is Mount Sofeh
•  As we were 4 we took a taxi but there are also buses
• Once there we took the cable car to the peak and we stayed for a few hours till sunset
  
  
  
  

• Less than 2 hours from Theran, there is a province and city called Qom, a holy city for Shia muslims, seocnd holiest city in Iran afetr Mashhad
• On our way to the airport (south of Tehran) during my third trip to Iran, we stopped in Qom and visited Jamkaran Mosque
  
  
  
  
• and Fatima Masumeh Shrine, much more spectacular
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

d) Tehran:

• I liked Iran so much that I took a solo trip to Tehran for my birthday in September 2015 (this was my second trip to Iran)
• Once in dowtown I mainly used metro, very cheap and surprisignly looking nice
  

• Tehran is a very big city and I preferred much more the smaller cities in the south. However I enjoyed the mountains in the north
• Sadly I do not remember a few places I visited so i will just mention a few

Main places visited in Tehran: 

• Azadi tower, Tajrish, Shemshak
  

• Azadi tower is one of the visual icons in the city, conmemorating 2,500th anniversary of the first Persian empire. You can enjoy views of the city from the top of the monument 
  
  
  
  

• Imamzadeh Saleh mosque, in Tajrish district, is a beutiful mosque to visit and there is a popular bazaar next to it
  

• Again, thanks to Hamed, my Iranian friend in Wales, I was able to meet a guy I met in Manchester (Shahed)
• He was very kind to take me and a guy I met in my hostel for a day tour to the mountains, to Shemshak sky resort 
• In Spetember we could not sky but we went for a trek to Dizin Peak
  
  
  
  

• I hope you find this blog useful and please, do not to be scared at all about Iran: impressive culture and great people