- I travelled around South Korea during a week mainly in Jeju and Busan, and I spent a few layovers in Seoul during 2018
- I advice downloading the applications "Jeju map offline", "Busan map offline", "Seoul map offline" as google maps does not work for walking directions: however google maps is reliable for public transport
- I will write the blog in order of my personal preference:
b) Busan
c) Seoul
- a1) East: Ilchunbong - Udo Island
- a2) South: Seogwipo (Jeonbang falls, Cheonjiyeon falls, Oedolgae, Jungmun beach)
- a3) Mount Hallasan (Seongpanak & Gwaneumsa trails)
- Jeju has been included as one of the new 7 wonders of nature
- Despite of the controversy of this nomination, the island is a natural paradise and totally worth it
- After landing in Jeju (direct flight from Seoul Gimpo airport) we realized our car rental was not valid as we did not have international licence (100% required in South Korea), so we had to reduce a bit our planning for 3 days
- Most places accept credit cards but if you need some spare cash (buses, etc...) is better to change in Seould airport as we found very few places in Jeju
- We used public buses to move around and we enjoyed even more than with car as we focused more in particular areas instead of rushing (there is free wifi almost everywhere and buses connect main parts of the island)
- Initially we went to Udo Island (15 minute ferry from Ilchunbong, approx. $8 roundtrip), where we rented a bicycle and a tandem to go around Udo (approx 12km)
- Rests of volcanic eruptions can still be appreciated along the island, together with beautiful beaches
- The tradition of "haenyeo" can also be observed: elderly female divers who catch seafood with no oxygen bottles up 20m deep holding their breath for up to 2-3 minutes
- Southeastern part of the island was our preferred spot, with a lighthouse at the top, views of Ilchunbong crater from Jeju side, and beautiful views all around
- At the beach right under you can find a few beautiful caves which connect directly with the sea
- Last ferries back to Ilchunbong depart around 6pm, and once back we enjoyed a great Korean fish hot pot
- Next morning before leaving we went to the top of Ilchunbong crater (online pictures of this crater from the air are stunning)
- There are "opening times" for the attraction that are a bit stupid: basically the crater does not ever close but if you visit during opening times you have to pay $2
- We went at 6am before opening times without knowing that and we were pleased by seeing many people starting the day early with a bit of sport, not only tourists but many locals
- The walk is just 40 minutes roundtrip and the views from the top are worth it
- We stayed at Hotel Gaon J Stay in Seogwipo for the last 2 nights, and I mention this place because it was extremely nice: very clean, affordable, with pool and live music some nights, and they have 3 free bicycles to enjoy during the day
- Pleased with the opportunity we cycled around Seogwipo for a day, visiting the following places:
- Jeonbang falls, $2 entrance, totally worth it, directly falling into the sea:
- Cheonjiyeon falls, also $2, ok to visit but not that impressive; however it has plenty of different "dol hareubang", the symbol of Jeju represented in large rock statues at the entrance of gates for protection against demons:
- Oedolgae, greatest surprise of the south part, as what initially looks like several rock formations by the sea turns into amazing secluded natural pools and we had a very nice unexpected time there:
- Jungmun beach, almost 15 km further from previous spots, one of the most popular beaches in the south (the area is beautiful, however we reached pretty late and could not enjoy the beach):
- As a food recommendation is Seogwipo, I would like to post a photo of a restaurant we loved. I cannot write the name in Korean characters but it has a cow as an icon instead of pork, and offers deliciuos Korean beef barbacue at a more than reasonable price:
- For the last day in Jeju we targetted to trek the highest peak in South Korea:
- There are several trails, but only two reach the peak: Seongpanak from the east & Gwaneumsa from the north
- We took bus to Seongpanak bus stop to start the trek and descended the Gwaneumsa trail, reaching the final parking where there are several taxis to take you to a bus stop or to your hotel up to your budget
- Seongpanak trail is a bit longer (9.3km) but softer, and more taken care
- It is very important to fill the bag with snacks and 1-2 liter of water per person as you can only refill twice during the trek and there is apparently one only shop on the way which we did not even see
- Another important advice is that there is a "check point" that you need to pass before 1pm in order to be allowed to reach the peak, so better to start the trekking at 8-9 am maximum
- Views of the crater from the top are wonderful, and we even enjoyed a little nap in the area
- Once at the top it is very easy to take the new trail if you want: Gwaneumsa, 8.6km, tougher, less taken care but even prettier in my opinion
- Here you are a few photos of this second trail
- The trek was amazing, quite tiring as it took us 8 hours to complete but 100% worth it!
- b1) Haeundae
- b2) Haedong Yonggusa
- b3) Taejondae
- b4) Gamcheon
- b5) Markets (Jagalchi, Gukje)
- b6) Gwangalli beach
b1) Haeundae:
- Our idea in Busan was to take it easier as we had been very active in Jeju
- We started in Busan by a relaxing afternoon in Haeundae beach, best in my opinion as far as I know Busan
- During the night there is a street food market in the streets behind the beach, and the area is popular for nightlife as well
- I would like to highly recommend korean "hotteok", kind of a sweet pancake that you can enjoy with honey, nuts, cheese or mixed, very delicious
- In between, we spent the first evening visiting Haedong Yonggusa, a Buddhist temple that was beyond my expectations due to its beautiful seaside location plus the quality of the decoration details
- Just leaving the temple there are indications for a short trek to a little beach nearby (1.5km) which counts with a few restaurants and cafes
- Second day we started visiting Taejondae park and lighthouse, but we were disappointed by the area, which is nice but in my opinion, not worth it during a short visit to Busan
- Gamcheon cultural village was one of the highlights of Busan
- In the past Gamcheon was a Korean "favela" or slum
- However, public initiatives have helped the development of this village which has become very touristic
- The area is packed with colourful houses in staircase along the foothills of a coastal mountain, with thousands of alleys, decorations, murals, sculptures, etc...currently totally safe to visit
- Not far we visited a few local markets
- Jagalchi is Korea's largest seafood market... it is incredibly huge, with several indoor floors, including restaurants, and a huge surrounding outdoor area
- You can try some very weird seafood such a live octopus or penis fish among others
- Gukje market is another big market adjacent to Jagalchi but offering all kinds of food plus clothes, electronics, etc...
- Last day we decided to relax by the beach again, and we visited another popular one
- However we found Gwangalli beach not as clean as Haeundae
- This area is very focused on tourists and nightlife as well
c) Main places visited in Seoul:
- c1) Downtown Seoul
- c2) Bukhansan National Park (green dot in the map)
- c3) DMZ (border with North Korea, red dot in the map)
- Seoul is a huge city and more alike to any other modern Asian city
- While I did not spend enough time in the capital, I did several short visits some of which might be worth it
- I will divide them in three parts (Seoul City Hall area, Anguk metro station area, and Han River)
- Cheonggyecheon stream is the place I liked the most, a river stream where locals enjoy walks, food or simply gather. I enjyed a nice take away lunch sitting by the river
- Seoul City Hall is connected throught metro network (lines 1 and 2) plus several buses
- Deoksugung palace (entrance 3,000 won) is a walled compund of palaces used for royal family during 20th century
- Bukchon Hanok Village is a nice Korean traditional village to walk around even if snowing!
- It is surrounded by several palaces, but I only had time to visit Changdeokgung palace, dated from late 14th century (one of the Five Grand Palaces built by Joseon Dynasty)
- Splitting Seoul in north and south, Han river can be cycled through a nice cycling track of up to 40km (I did not have time to rent a bicycle and enjoy this plan but online information and pictures look great)
- Best activity I enjoyed in Seoul was a 4h trek across Bukhansan mountain
- Departing from Incheon airport I took bus number 6012 till Gupabal station (10,000 won), and from there I took bus 704 till Bukhansan fortress (1,300 won), taking me 1:30h
- Following a paved road I reached the Western gate
- The path is quite easy to follow, and easy to walk at the beginning
- In total it is about 4km to reach the peak, but last km is quite tough
- Reaching Insubong peak (836m) is totally worth it an views of Seoul and surrounding areas are magnificent. Pity that it was very cold so I could not stay long time enjoying a picnic
- I decided to complete the trek going to the Eastern side of the National Park (around 5km more)
- There are several options to leave, but quite well indicated, so you just need to choose your best option
- Once you leave the park there is free Seoul city wi-fi so you can continue your journey through public transport to wherever you go (I took bus 109 till Changdeokgung palace and from there bus 6011 till Incheon where my hotel was)
- I was curious about the border with North Korea, so I joined an organized DMZ tour with the company "Seoul city tour" (44,000 won) as visitors are only allowed with guided tours
- I think the price was fair
- You need to book a few days before, at least 1 day as far as I know, and sometimes availability is limited
- However I could not go to the JSA (Joint Security Area) where soldiers from South and North Korea face each other) as this area is only open to visitors some specific days each month
- First stop was Imjingak Park & Freedom Bridge, last village before the DMZ, where a former rail bridge used to connect North and South Korea and where some prisioners were repatriated with no possibility of return during the war
- The park was built to console people from both sides unable to return to their hometowns, and has remnants of War such a locomotive damaged in 1950's
- The visit continued to the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel (since the armistice on 1953 four infiltration tunnels from North Korea targetting to reach Seoul have been discovered, while North Korea denies it), discovered in 1978
- Photos are not allowed inside so I only can show the South Korean excavation to the tunnel itself. It is more impressive inside as the hole on ground was made by explosives
- At this point they played an 8-minute movie very interesting about these infiltration tunnels and the conflict (technically North and South Korea are still at war nowadays as only an armistice was signed)
- Final visit (not counting a Ginseng shop for tourists on the way back to Seoul) was Dora observatory, where some binoculars allow you to see a bit of North Korea
- Sadly the day was very foggy so I could only see the North Korean flag but not much more
- Anyway, best about this visit is to learn about its history (Japan occupation, Cold War, impact of US and Soviet countries in Korea, modern conflict etc)
- Hope this information helps :)
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