The following I was writing during the trip in my personal notebook
10-08-2020
Nine years later, I am doing the Camino de Santiago again. Back in 2011 I did it by bicycle with my best friend, sadly not a friend anymore. That time, we traveled through the North of Spain (Basque country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia)
This time, we are doing the Coastal Portuguese Camino from Porto by foot. The 7th at night we took a bus from Madrid to Porto, and we spent a whole day in Porto. Pedro, from Couchsurfing, hosted us and took our bags since early in the morning so we could enjoy the city. It was a chilly morning and a warm afternoon, a lovely day. We saw the main attractions, walked a lot, tried typical food (francesinha, pastel de nata, and Hannah also Porto wine) and had a great nap by the gardens of Ribeira.
Early on the 9th we walked our first leg of the journey, from Porto to Vila do Conde. We left very early (6am) and we saw a few cities awakening on our way. We crossed the Medieval Goimil Bridge.
After lunch we went to the beach between Mindelo and Vila do Conde. The water is really cold but the beach was beautiful, full of dunes and green areas nearby.
There we met a Portuguese friend of Hannah. They met in Dubai 7 years ago when they joined Fly Emirates as cabin crew, and it was great to share some stories and memories with her.
In the evening we headed to Vila do Conde and started looking for a place to spend the night. The only camping we saw was full and another hostel for Pilgrims was closed (it is Coronavirus summer, 2020). There are very few pilgrims compared to other years and many hostels are still closed.
After this experience, in which, after all, we slept fine, we started our walk at 6am again. We are now relaxing at the beach in Esposende, 5pm, inside our tent, which is also very helpful if it gets very hot and sunny. The water is freezing and looks it will be like this everyday, so better we accept it from now.
In the town of Fao we have enjoyed another wonderful "peregrino" menu each of us this time: drink, vegetable soup, main dish (chicken salad & meat-potato stew that we shared between us), cake (incredibly delicious) and coffee for just €8 each, great deal. During all these towns you can find plenty of these deals, but this one was specially good. We try to have a menu or two for lunch and have a lighter dinner.
By the way, both the little town of Fao and the city center of Esposende have been our favourite places so far (appart form the beaches and the city of Porto, of course).
Again today, we do not know where to sleep but we will enjoy it somehow.
14-08-2020
Last few days have been phisically demanding (28km, 35km & 30km) and we are having a day off in Baiona, already in Galicia, Spain. We found Marcos in Couchsurfing, who is hosting us in his delightful appartment just 100m from the beach (Praia de Santa Marta, Baiona).
Yesterday night we shared with him a great salad & vegetables´pasta with tomate sauce cooked by Hannah, and he prepared an amazing shake with melon, banana, yogurt and lemon icecream, while we enjoyed Champions League (Atlético 1 - Leipzig 2) at home.
Having slept in a bed after 4 days camping at random locations has been a great present.
On the 11th after leaving Esposende, where we camped by the beach, we walked a lot through a few cities till Viana de Castelo, encountering a big river and a few forest paths.
We were aiming to spend the night at Camping Rio Lima, just before crossing the bridge into Viana do Castelo. However, we found a nice restaurant where we enjoyed some soup and sardines with vegetables (Restaurante Margem Sul, highly recommended) and after lunch we decided to skip the camping and visit Viana do Castelo, a very beautiful town with a medieval touch.
On the 12th we woke up and it was not raining... yet. We put everything in our bags and started walking at 6am as usual. A bit later, rain started and continued for 3-4 hours. We wanted to cross into Spain that very morning, from Caminha to Camposancos, near La Guardia.
There are ferries that offer an hourly service from one side to the other of Miño River, but during several hours of low tide there is no service. We arrive at 12:10 and the last ferry had left at 12. Because of the low tide, the next ferry was at 19:30, so we decided to enjoy Caminha, another impressive little town.
Apart from Porto, the beauty of the towns on our way has increased. We had lunch in Caminha (we tried Feijoada, a pork and beans stew with rice, very typical from Brazil) and we bought some amazing passion fruit at the local market. It was so delicious that Hannah went back for more and we kept over 15 pieces for the next trekking days.
Despite the lack of ferry till late, there is a taxi-boat service that crosses anytime (minimum 2 people, €5 per person), so we took it at around 4pm.
Back in Spain, right in the river beach, we rested for a bit. Many of the beaches on the way have showers, and we enjoyd one at this one (Praia do Muiño).
Above us we could see a hill with a touristic attraction called Castro de Santa trega, where you can find rests of an early civilization who inhabited the area from few centuries BC till I AD. We decided to go uphill, a bit exhausted (we did 35km that day), but the views were worth it. On one side you see the Portuguese side separated by Miño river.
And looking into the Spanish side you have the view of several km of coast, and depending on the viewpoint, you can even appreciate the ancient houses of that civilization and also the town of La Guardia by the port, with Miño river on the right handside, and the Atlantic Ocean on the left. So far, the best panorama of the trip.
On our way down into La Guardia, ready to find somewhere to spend the night, there was a guy playing the Galician bagpipes in a park (welcome to Galicia).
A bit after La Guardia, we saw a separate parking with several caravans, and a bit of grass area behind some of them. Protected from the cars and quite confortable and tired, we slept in our tent (4th day ina row). We woke up almost at the same time as in Portugal, but there is 1h difference in Spain. The result was having the sky covered with stars, good morning!
Yesterday, 13th, we came to Baiona, where we had arranged to meet Marcos in the afternoon. We had almost 30km ahead of us, another demanding day. On the way, the town of Oya was very cute.
I recommend having breakfast here as we did not find much during the whole day, but for a camping´s restaurant.
The Camino till Baiona is very pretty, mostly coastal, but we arrived very tired this time and hungry.
Almost 160km in the last six days carrying our backpacks has been amazing but a bit tiring as well, so yesterday evening we chilled with Marcos and today we will take it easy. In fact, the next few days we will visit the islands of Cies and Ons from Vigo, so we have a few days to rest ahead of us. On the 20th we will go back to our 25-30 km a day on our way to Santiago, and hopefully Finsiterre as well.
By the way, I have found very useful to have the following items with us:
- Swiss army knife (for food and rope).
- A bit of rope (for keeping the sleeping bag, the mat, or even the mask around the neck).
- The tent (it is 2,5kg, allows us to sleep anywhere and also rest and keep the bags in the beach), mat and sleeping bag.
- Lantern (we have a small one that can be attached inside the tent, great to start packing in the morning and prepare the inside of the tent at night).
- An external battery (even if we normally we ask to charge our phones in bars or restauants where we eat).
- Different plastics bags (inside my backpack I have several bags separating my items in grups: i.e. clean clothes,beach clothes, sleeping bag, tent, dirty clothes, food... like that, packing and unpacking takes just a fex minutes).
- Googles (I enjoy swimming and for the Galician islands might be handy).
- Flip flops (for hygiene in showers nad giving a rest to my feet).
- An special belt with a zippered inside pocket (where I keep some cash).
- Pen and notebook (I like reflecting some thoughts and write after a few days so I can revive great memories some day, and thanks to that I can publish this now).
Apart from that, I take very few clothes, minimum toiletries, and in general the least weight as possible.
17-08-2020
We are at a hotel in Vigo for two nights. It is only 1pm but we are still taking it easy as it is raining a lot.
On the 15th we came from Baiona to Vigo in the morning (around 22km) and we met two friends (Natalia & Anabeli) in the afternoon. We thought the day was going to be relaxed but we agreed to walk to "El mejor banco del mundo" (the best bench in the world according to this town. It was a 9km walk one way, so that day we reached 40km, our record. We were back at their hotel after midnight, and we were so exhausted and still without any idea of where to spend the night, thatwe stayed in our sleeping bags in their room. At least the views from that "bench area" and the walk itself were nice.
On our way back, we had dinner at the best restaurant of this trip so far: Bar Nando, just 5km outside Vigo. They offered incredible sardines (and other dishes of course), an amazing local vibe, and a lovely family was running it.
Yesterday we went to spend teh day in Cies island with both of them. In order to visit the island (also for Ons), you have to apply for a free permit online, and then you an proceed to book your ferry.
We had a chilly morning and went to visit the Eastern part of the island. The view from "Alto do Principe" was the best: the sea on both sides, a lake in the middle and the mountains at the back.
We were lucky enough to have two hours of sun in one of the beaches as well, with freezing water, and we enjoyed lunch in one of the three restaurants (Bar Serafin, quite good). After lunch it was rainy and very windy so it was not that pleasant.
The island itself is very well taken care, beautiful and I think allowing only 2,000 vistors per day is a great idea as the only way to preserve it.
Our friends have continued their trip and we stay in Vigo till tomorrow morning. We expect lot of rain for at least the next four days and our legs are still recovering. In fact, my left knee is giving me trouble walking properly, and Hannah´s Achiles in both legs are bothering as well.
Therefore today we have just bought plenty of food for the next two days in Ons island and we have visited the Castro de Vigo at the top of a hill, with a nice garden inside, and I guess, in a sunny day, it has amazing views of the coast.
21-08-2020
It is 5pm and we are resting in a garden on our way to Santiago, which is only 20km ahead of us. Tomorrow morning we will reach.
Tonight we are meeting David, Sara and Edu (friends we met in Madrid in the last few months) in a traditional restaurant called "Fogar do Santiso". Edu is from Galicia, he recommends it and looks great.
The visit to Ons was nice despite of the chilly weather. We could not enjoy the beach but enjoyed walking around the island, a free tour explaining hoe life is and was in the island (currently only seven people live here during winter and boats cannot reach in several weeks due to severe conditions), and the picnic we brought with us. That night there was another tour for free about astronomy which seemed great. The devices the guide brought were huge and impressive. I had never seen something like that. However, after more than 1 hour we could not see anything as it was very foggy. It was a pity but the explanations were very interesting and made us curious.
On the 19th we went back from the island to Portonovo. We walked from there to Pontevedra (19km). On the way, in Sanjenjo, I had the best white and dark chocolate palmera I have had in my life, or at least in long time. Also we had a great lunch at Combarro, a lovely town by the sea with an ancient street packed with restaurants.
In Pontevedra, Bryan (from Costa Rica) and Noelia (from Madrid as well as myself) hosted us for the night. It was a pleasant evening talking with them and their situation is a bit similar to us: around 30 years of age, from different countries, married and starting a life together in Spain.
At night, Hannah and me went to see a bit of Pontevedra but it rained so hard we could not enjoy it. However, yesterday morning, on our way to Caldas do Reis, we appreciated a bit of Pontevedra. We felt it can be a nice city to live in actually.
Once in Caldas, we went to a public thermal fountain where you can relax your feet both in hot and cold water.
We spent the night by the gardens of a church in Carracedo in our tent, similarly as last week.
This morning the rain has been quite bad for a few hours but it is meant to be fine for our last week. The plan so far is to reach Santiago tomorrow, and later to Finisterre for 3-4 more days and spend the last two days by the beach.
27-08-2020
We reached Finisterre yesterday morning, the end of the world for the Romans.
Before that, on the 22nd we arrived to Santiago de Compostela and got our certificate for the pilgrimage.
The city is very alive and quite touristic. It was great to have an airbnb for that day, wash our clothes and have a proper sleep. At sharp 12:30pm we went for lunch to "O Gato Negro" (the Black Cat) and enjoyed a feast with a great both local and touristic vibe (delicious empanadas, green peppers, mussels, chorizo...).
At night, Hannah felt like cooking a simple typical Egyptian dish: chicken soup with rice. We had a huge delicious tupper for next day´s walk as well.
Finisterre is about 90km from Santiago and it was our last target in this dream/trip. However, after 350km it is tough to start again and the first two days were a challenge.
The first day, Ponte Maceira was incredible. After over 20km we reached a village with an ancient bridge, a huge river, a bit of a waterfall and a grass area where could rest after a swim.
That night we slept right after the town of Negreira (approx 25km that dat) in our tent, as well as the next two days. Carrying some kg of weight and sleeping in nature several days in a row has been another challege.
Bythe way, this first day after Santiago, Hannah and me had a bad fight. At least it is good I do not even remeber why. She had blisters, we were quite tired, it has been three weeks of 24h together day and night, very physical, with plenty of effort... (actually just 10 days later we found out she is pregnant!). Anyway, she asked me for her personal belongings which I was carrying (cards, passport, etc.) and stayed behind. For a few moments we both thought she was not going to reach Finisterre. Actually she was ready to go back to Madrid. Anyway, we talked, solved the issue and continued.
The second day (24th) was the toughest:over 30km till Olveiroa in a really hot day. At night, for the first time ever, we asked a family if we could put the tent in their garden and the father accpeted. First time we actually asked and it was a success. It actually felt a bit safer, even if the garden did not have a fence neither a gate or any other sort of security.
The third day was nice as we were approaching beach towns again: Cee, Corcubión, etc.
At the beginning of the day we had to decide between doing an extra day to Muxia, or heading stratight to Finisterre. We chose this second option. Maybe one day we do the "Ruta de los Faros" (Lighthouse Way) from Malpica to Finisterre. Cycling could be an interesting option for theses 200km along the coast.
By the way, the size of sandwiches during the last few days has been incredibly huge.
In Cee the lunch menu was also something to remember: fideua, fish or meat (huge portion), delicious cake, drink and cofferr for €10!
That night we camped for the last timein this trip, in a spot which was meant to offer views of Finisterre. However it was too foggy. It was an excellent surprise to wake up for a clear sunrise and see the light of the lighthouse at the very end.
As I said, yesterday, 26th, we made it into Finisterre, walked till the km 0,0000 by the lihgthouse and we are staying at a hotel for two days. We really needed it.
Also, my uncle recommended "Don Percebe", a restaurant that I do highly recommend, where we enjoyed a great seafood platter yesterday (almejas, navajas, percebe, nécora, buey y centollo) and a lovely seafood paella today and we are relaxing a lot today.
Tomorrow afternoon we will start our journey back to Madrid: bus to Santiago, bus to the airport, a few hours at night sleeping in the airport, and hopefully at 7am on the 19th we fly to Madrid.
It has been almost 480km walking for the last three weeks and I am sure we will remember this trip a long time.
By the way, that 29th morning we reached home and found out Hannah is pregnant. Hopefully our first baby, we cannot wait:)
